Generally, they are the highest quality a breeder has to offer. A kitten may grow up to be not quite what you had expected, whereas with a retiree, temperament, color, pattern and even idiosyncrasies are fully developed. With a mature cat you know how affectionate it is, how well it gets along with other pets and if it gets along with children, as well as its general activity level.

When deciding to add a Bengal cat to your family, adopting a retiree may not be your first choice, but it might just be the perfect choice!

Transitioning an adult cat into a new home

Bengals typically adjust easily, but be aware that it may take longer for an adult cat to adjust, depending on the individual cat. A new home can be stressful and frightening. Patience and understanding can help your new cat feel at ease.

While Bengals are very adaptable, it is not unreasonable to allow several weeks for a mature cat to adjust. During this time, your new companion should be confined, to a smaller room and away from other pets and young children, allowing him or her to get used to you as caregiver and friend.

It’s not uncommon for cats to present behavioral challenges during the first few days in a new home, but these usually disappear with time.  Adult cats often hide under furniture at first. Some may spend hours or even days hiding. Sit and speak quietly allowing the new cat to get used to you and the sounds of their new home. Be sure food, water, and litter box are always nearby.

Introducing Other Family Pets

The ability of animals to get along depends much on their individual personalities. The cat’s personality must be evaluated, in addition to: How old is the retiree? Has he/she been living with other cats/dogs? The resident dogs and or other cats in the home must also be evaluated.

There will always be one pet who is dominant in the household. A new pet may upset the existing hierarchy, therefore proper introductions are important to ensure successful integration. The first impression a new cat makes when he or she meets your other pets is critical. If there is aggression during their first meeting it has the potential to set the mood for their future relationship. For this reason, it’s best to separate resident pets from your new cat at first, so you can control the initial meeting. Isolating the newcomer, for at least two weeks, will help your new cat feel more secure and will allow other pets to get used to unfamiliar smells without threat.

It can be helpful to allow “meetings” to take place with the pets in two separate rooms, by allowing paws to play under a closed door. Another method of introduction is to present the new cat in a carrier, allowing the others to sniff and investigate on their terms. Dogs should be on a leash in case the need for restraint presents itself. Never allow your dog to chase the cat. Allow them to accept one another in their own time. Never leave them alone together until it is safe to do so and they have fully accepted one another.

If the cat has free roam during the introduction, he/she should have a safe retreat, either up high or in a room inaccessible to the dog. An adult cat may swat at the dog to set limits. Don’t scold the cat for this behavior. Work within the cat’s comfort levels. Interactions should always be positive. Many Bengals and dogs become great friends and playmates if allowed to do so on their own terms. Spayed or neutered cats are generally more accepting of other cats. Two altered adult cats often become good friends in the same home.

Monitor interactions and reward appropriate responses your pets show toward each other. Remember, never force the interaction.

Check out the available retirees in the Bengals Illustrated Directory:

AVAILABLE RETIREES

You have just adopted a cat or a new kitten and you’ve noticed some peculiarities with his or her behavior, personality, color and/or pattern. You are now thinking, “This is like no other tabby I have ever seen or known.”  Perhaps someone told you that your new cat or kitten looks or acts like a Bengal cat!  You begin your search on the web, talk with friends, make some inquiries and you begin to think that maybe, just maybe, you do have a Bengal cat or a Bengal-mix because your new cat or kitten definitely has some of the behavioral traits of the Bengal breed and it looks similar to the Bengals that you have seen on the internet. 

Can you know for sure?

Feline behaviorist, Marilyn Krieger, Sal Vitale, the president of Bengal Cat Rescue and Tracy Painter a Bengal Cat Rescue Volunteer try to help you determine if your cat is indeed a Bengal cat or perhaps a Bengal cat mix.                                       (Written for Bengals Illustrated.)

Bengal Cat Rescue and Bengal breeders are frequently asked by individuals to help them positively identify the breed of cat of a cat with an unknown heritage.  Additionally, shelters too, to determine if the cat just received is a Bengal, will often contact rescuers and sometimes breeders for breed identification assistance.

Without a pedigree in hand, registration papers or specific information from the person that surrendered the cat, there is no guarantee on breed type (especially with poorly bred cats/kittens or with breed mixes).  Even the “experts” can be uncertain of breed identity (or cannot come to a unanimous decision) based on photos and descriptions of a cat with an unknown origin.

The following may help you to “deduce” if a particular cat or kitten is a Bengal or a Bengal-mix.

Let’s start with some background information.

A Little History

Asian Leopard Cat, Murphy          Owned by Sandra Sipe

The Bengal breed has an interesting history. It starts with the Asian Leopard Cat. The leopard cat is a small wild cat found throughout the forests and jungle areas of Asia (hence the name Asian Leopard Cat or ALC). There are many subspecies of the leopard cat. It is believed only two subspecies were used in Bengal breeding programs. The first and predominate subspecies used was Prionailurus bengalensis bengalensis. The second subspecies utilized was Prionailurus bengalensis euptailura, also known as the Amur Leopard Cat.

Documentation reveals a cross between an ALC and a domestic cat occurred in 1963 by Jean Sugden (Mill). This breeding was between a black domestic shorthair (DSH, a generic, domestic cat) and an ALC female. The very first Bengal from this pairing was a female named KinKin. KinKin went on to produce offspring. Due to family issues in 1966, Jean stopped the experimental breedings (which she resumed some years later). There were others involved in producing Asian Leopard Cat crosses in the early developmental years. Most notable was Dr. Willard Centerwall who was doing research on human leukemia and the ALC’s resistance to leukemia. He crossed domestic cats to the Asian Leopard Cat’s for more handle-ability in the laboratory and to progress his research. It should be noted, Bengals DO NOT have any special resistance to feline leukemia. Jean Mill got in touch with Dr. Centerwall and obtained a few female F1′s (50% ALC, 50% domestic), from his lab and continued her development of the “toy leopards.” Her goal was to discourage fur trade and owning of exotics that are often misunderstood by the general public and viewed as a status symbol. (For more Bengal cat History, see Bengal Cat History)

The Bengal As We Know It

With multiple breeds and generic cats mixed in, Bengal breeders soon discovered interesting surprises in their litters. Recessive genes began to display themselves. Most
were color related, such as lockets (non-desirable white spot generally on the neck or groin, but can be anywhere on the body), ticking (lacking contrast between the background color and the markings) and the “Marble” or classic tabby pattern. A truly unexpected surprise was long hair. The “Snow” Bengals (three different types of albinism) and the “Marble” Bengal are highly prized and accepted now, but this was not always the case. Their beauty and attraction lead them to be recognized for championship show status. Bengals can be brown, silver (both dominate color genes), snow (seal lynx, seal mink and seal sepia and silver snows), blue, melanistic (black), smoke, red, torbie, and cinnamon with patterns that are either spotted or marbled. Currently the accepted colors for show status are brown, snow and silver. Some breeders are working towards the acceptance of blue, melanistics, and long haired Bengals (also referred to as Cashmeres) for championship status.

Most breeders avoid breeding color recessives, unless it is a desirable one or a color they are working with toward the goal of championship status, but these colors still crop up. These kittens are typically sold as pets along with other kittens that may not meet the Bengal standard for showing or breeding.

Since Bengals are classified as a tabby their bellies must always be spotted (occasionally marbles have elongated belly spots). Just because a cat has spots on its belly, does not mean it’s a Bengal or a Bengal mix (tabbies have spotted bellies). A very unique trait known as “glitter” does not occur in all Bengals, and is not given preference for show. Toby/Tory of Delhi is attributed to bringing glitter in to the breed. Glitter is best described as a variation in the hairs where the tips have less color pigment (are more translucent). When light passes through these hairs, it has a similar effect as light on a diamond, this reflective anomaly makes the cat’s coat “glitter.”

Have you ever put your hands on a quality fur and thought “Oh, that feeeels so good?” You should have the same response when touching a Bengal cat. The fur on a Bengal is
commonly referred to as a “pelt.” A quality Bengal will have a coat that is extremely smooth to the touch, and feels “polished.” A strong plush quality should exist. When you
run your fingers through the coat, it should leave little dimples or tracks that can be smoothed away when you reverse the motion.

Bengals can make amazing sounds. Their vocal range is very wide, generally exceeding that of the basic cat population. Bengal voices are made up of the standard “meow,” accompanied by any or all of the following sounds:

• Chirps
• Buzzes
• Yowls
• Growls
• Blurps
• Or any combination of the aforementioned sounds.

Bengals have unique conversational tones for other cats, other Bengals, and their humans. Owners have learned to differentiate between sounds for “Feed me,” “Pet me,” “You called me,” and “Turn on the faucet. I want a drink.”  Bengals can be extremely vocal and talkative, or may only talk when they have a need for their human to provide them with something.

A well-bred Bengal will move like a big cat. You want to watch for fluid rolling of the shoulders when walking and the head should be out front, as if seeking prey. When you see a Bengal, something in the back of your mind should say “I know it’s a cat, but it moves like a leopard.”

The Bengal breed standard can be hard to comprehend even by an experienced breeder and or show person. The wording is not in layman’s terms and it doesn’t have pictorial examples. However, one can look at the top winning cats, to see good breed examples. Certain judges and breeders favor one look over another. This is all well and good for breeders and show persons, but can hinder uniformity of the breed.  Add lost and never recovered breeding cats, unethical breeders that breed for greed and with no regard for the betterment of the breed and you can see how it would be hard to determine a Bengal or Bengal-mix without positive proof, such as registration papers (some unethical parties even falsify registrations). (For more information on the breed standard see The Bengal Cat.)

Filial or Early Generation Bengals
Early Generation (EG) Bengals, also known as Filial or Foundation (Fn) Bengals, can often be just as difficult to identify.  A quick primer here on EG’s. These cats are the first three outcrosses from the ALC. In most feline registries (i.e. TICA), the SBT (four generations Bengal to Bengal breeding) is recognized for show and can be shown in championship competition. F1 (first generation from the ALC) males are sterile. This is not uncommon in the scientific realm. Some F2 (second generation from the ALC) males have been fleetingly fertile, and there have been a few F3 (third generation from the ALC) males that have sired litters. F1 females have occasionally had problems with sterility, but this rare. Due to genetics, you will not see a glittered F1 or a marbled F1. A Snow F1 or a melanistic F1 would be extremely rare, however traits such as albinism and melanism do happen in wild populations of most living creatures. This is not a very good survival strategy, and those displaying these colors typically do not survive to pass on their genes. However, in isolated or controlled breeding situations these recessives genes can and do show up.

What happened when you had all these early generation (EG) Bengal females and no fertile males?

A domestic male with traits desired to incorporate into the new breed of cat was sought. A lot of DSH’s were used of varying body type and color, most notably Tory of Delhi (also known as Toby) found in a rhino pen in India. Egyptian Maus (and many other specific breeds) were also used in the formulation of the Bengal breed. Much of the difficulty in EG identification lies in “what generation is this cat?” Usually F1’s look wild, like their ALC parent, but some may resemble a later generation. F2’s typically retain some of the “wilder” look, but can also look like a generation further on. F3’s look more domestic than earlier generations.  Aside from generation, looking at color, pattern, clarity of coat, head and body type, there can still be drastic differences even with careful breeding and within litters (siblings). While ethical breeders work hard to improve the breed and strive for uniformity (type/standard), sometimes there are just surprises! If these surprises are not for the benefit of the breed they are “petted out,” which means they are placed as altered pets.

A Bengal, A Mix, or a Really Cute Cat
There are many variables to consider in identifying a Bengal cat. You have to take into account color, pattern, glitter, coat type, body type, etc. And then, you must also take into consideration similar breeds, pet quality cats bred for profit and/or without permission. Some that are unconcerned with the standard breed poor quality cats. Then there are mixes, different looks due to breed diversity (conformation, color and pattern), unsocialized, abused, neglected cats, and even well-socialized and loved cats…with all the variable, it is often hard for even seasoned breeders and rescuers to be unanimous on breed identification. The cat in question is often best judged in person, when you can really see the whole cat, watch it move, listen to its voice and interact with it. Photos are very often hard to help someone determine if a cat is a poor quality Bengal, or a possible mix. Mixes are the most difficult to identify, and other than knowing for a fact at least one parent was Bengal, we can never say for sure if your cat is a Bengal or a cross. Without papers there are only educated guesses via experience with the breed.

Bengal Behavior
© 2007 by Marilyn Krieger, CCBC www.thecatcoach.com, Some of the material in this article was adapted from an article by Marilyn Krieger published in the Spring 2007 issue of Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice Bengal Cats have unique personalities and behavior traits. 

As with all cats, there are many factors that can impact a cat’s behavior throughout its life. Along with genetics and the environment, the way people interact with their cat impacts how a cat behaves. Having the genes of an Asian Leopard Cat (ALC) in the Bengal cat’s heritage doesn’t make them any more wild, or prone to behavior problems then any other cat breed. On the contrary, having the genes of a leopard cat does contribute to their high intelligence, alertness, personalities and activity levels. Bengals have inherited much of their uniqueness from the little Asian Leopard Cat. The ALC is a small, shy and non-aggressive cat that is both prey and predator. When given the choice, the ALC will flee from potential threats instead of fighting. In their natural world, ALCs are very agile, alert and elusive, adapting well to their environment. They are excellent swimmers and acrobatic jumpers and are very comfortable high up in the tree tops or swimming in a marsh. Bengals are very muscular and athletic like the little Asian Leopard Cat. Most Bengals love being up high, the higher the better. Like the ALC, Bengals make good use of vertical territory. It is not uncommon to find Bengals sitting on top of doors or perched on the tops of high cabinets. They are athletes, scaling walls and allegedly cat-proof fences with ease.

Bengals are busy little cats with agendas. Like the ALC, Bengals are very smart, agile and alert. They learn from watching and can easily figure out how to open doors,  windows and cupboards. They also love to play fetch for hours. They need things to do, or they will make their own entertainment. Water has many uses in the life of an ALC. It is not unusual for Asian Leopard Cats to dispose of their excrement in running water. One theory for this is that eliminating in water will hide the ALC scent from large predators by washing the excrement downstream. Eliminating in water also hides their feces and urine scents from prey that would be scared away by the smell of a predator. Like the ALC, water plays a variety of roles in most Bengals lives. Most Bengals, no matter how far removed from the ALC, love to play in water. Some take showers or baths with their human companions, splashing around, chasing toys having a wonderful time. The majority of Bengals prefer to drink directly from a faucet or a fountain. The closer the Bengal is to the ALC, filially (F), the more ALC personality traits are usually present. Some early generation (EG) Bengals will occasionally urinate in their water dish, in the sink or bathtub. Most Bengals, of all generations, have unique ways of eliminating. Some perch their front feet, and sometimes all four feet, on the rim of their litter box while eliminating, others straddle the box. Bengals can be very creative in how they position themselves when using their litter boxes.

It has been observed that Asian Leopard Cats in captivity sometimes form strong affection bonds with other ALCs and depending on the circumstances, with their human caregivers. There are reports of captive male ALCs giving their food and sleeping areas to their females. Some male ALCs would be perfect candidates for 12 step co-dependent programs. Well-socialized Bengals form very close bonds with human companions. Some follow their human companions around the house. Additionally, Bengals want to be involved in many of the activities their human companions are involved with. Since Bengals are very socially motivated and need stimulation, leaving them alone every day for hours with no one to interact with can lead to behavior challenges. It is not uncommon for EG Bengals to form such strong bonds with their human companions, that changing owners or homes causes them to become depressed and sick. Because the EGs are so close to the ALC, they typically do not show they are ill until they are very seriously ill. Eighty percent of the cases involving transitioning EG Bengals to a different owner that this author has been involved with have become very sick, ten percent of those unfortunately died.

Generally speaking, Bengals do not do well when confined. This can be a serious, life-threatening problem for Bengals that are surrendered to shelters. Many shelters  euthanize Bengals, labeling them as unadoptable because they react very badly when they are taken from their homes and the family they have bonded to, and then confined in small cages. Through education and persistence of rescue groups, more shelters are contacting the appropriate Bengal rescue groups for help. Additionally, most Bengals do not like being confined in one room against their will. Bengals want to be in the middle of everything, part of the family, always interacting with their special human companions. The Bengal Cat has inherited traits from both the Asian Leopard Cat and the domestic cat. The result of this union is an affectionate, active and intelligent cat with a very unique personality. Although Bengals are different from other cats because of their ALC ancestry, they are not more prone to developing behavioral challenges then any other cat breed.

Summary

Identifying a Bengal or a Bengal-mix without registration papers or proof that one parent was a Bengal, can be quite difficult and subjective. There are times when we see cats
in shelters or pictures that owners have sent us and we all clamor “that’s a Bengal,” but it is through years of dealing with Bengals as breeders, rescuers and owners, that we
can “see” through some of the vagueness. As often as not, we do not all agree as to which cat is a Bengal or a possible mix. You must always look at the whole cat, color, pattern, body shape and behavior/personality traits and also the sounds the cat makes to make an educated guess. Shelters often assign a breed name to their cats. Sometimes out of ignorance and often to give the cat a better chance of being adopted. A breed will often be adopted over a cat labeled DOMESTIC SHORTHAIR. So if it walks like Bengal, looks like a Bengal and acts like a Bengal, it just might be a Bengal!  But…just because you are relatively sure you have a Bengal, DO NOT try breeding it. You don’t know its genetics, you may not see its faults and breeding this cat will harm the breed, not help it. Just love your cat for its uniqueness and as your beloved pet! Enjoy your Bengal, your Bengal-mix, or your wanna be Bengal!

]]> http://www.bengalsillustrated.com/3161/is-my-cat-a-bengal/feed/ 0 http://www.bengalsillustrated.com/2721/the-importance-of-toys-for-your-bengal-cat/ http://www.bengalsillustrated.com/2721/the-importance-of-toys-for-your-bengal-cat/#comments Thu, 06 Dec 2012 01:21:41 +0000 Brigitte http://www.bengalsillustrated.com/?p=2721 Continue reading →]]> Being educated on the importance of toys and how they can aid in maintaining a kitten’s health and well being is just one key, of many, to successful Bengal cat ownership!

As kittens go through various life stages, certain behaviors will come and go and cat owners need to effectively deal with both good and bad behavior that may surface.

Cat toys can be one of the greatest assets available to the feline caregiver. Toys are crucial in a cat’s life from early kitten-hood straight through to adulthood. They stimulate the cat both mentally and physically.

While most kitten’s don’t need any help finding ways to entertain themselves, owners should regularly schedule feline playtime into their day.  This interaction will help to ensure a well socialized kitten who will mature into a well-rounded mature cat.

Additionally, a lack of exercise can lead to a fat, overweight cat, which in turn can lead to a myriad of health problems–such as diabetes and unnecessary stress to joints. Planning play time helps to alleviate kitten boredom.  Bengal kittens are especially active and a bored Bengal kitten is a Bengal kitten who is apt to get into trouble!

Kittens can develop social skills, coordination, running, pouncing and catching abilities through the aid of toys. A good variety of toys can help to provide a kitten with hours of fun, exercise and education! Without toys, rough play can get out-of-hand (or directed at the hand!).  Kittens should be taught that toys are for biting and scratching not hands.

Kittens are naturally full of energy and play, which is often displayed through play biting and scratching.  Therefore, toys can also help prevent undesirable aggressive play directed toward family members or even other pets. Biting and chewing toys may also aid in better dental health too.

Along with a healthy amount of cuddling and love, interactive toys will provide wonderful exercise opportunities, as well as making for a great deal of fun for the kitten and its owner. Certain toys, like teasers with long “streamers” are perfect toys for young children to use, since these will often create some space between the kitten and the child–instilling confidence in the kitten (as the child sits while playing) and safety from an accidental scratch for the child.

Periodically rotating toys will help to assure that your kitten does not become bored with his or her toys and that the toys continue to stimulate even into adulthood.  Any toy that is starting to show wear should be replaced to avoid the possibility of swallowing a piece of the toy. Swallowing toys can be very dangerous to young kittens as well as to mature cats. Swallowed toys do not always come out on their own and often require the assistance of surgery to save the kitten’s or cat’s life.

The safety of toys should always be foremost in the selection process. Bengals Illustrated recommends that small bells, eyes, ribbons, bows, twine or string that can easily be torn off of a toy and possibly be swallowed be removed from the toy prior to giving it to your kitten or cat. Bengal cats have a particular fondness for toys that are easily tossed or carried as prey. Natural materials are often favored (real fur, wool, feathers, leather, etc.). Some toys may not be what would be considered by trade as a cat toy, but Bengal kittens and cats will quickly make a toy out of some of the simplest things–like boxes, paper bags, or even a crumpled up piece of paper!

Feline caregivers should remember, that all toys should be utilized with some amount of supervision. Teaser wands should never be left with the kitten or cat unsupervised. Strings or cord on the teaser could easily become wrapped around a neck or leg causing injury or even possibly death.

Finally, a sturdy cat tree is an essential for kittens.

Bengal kittens love to run, jump and climb. They enjoy high places and a cat tree can provide hours, days, months and even years of enjoyment for your feline companion.

A cat tree is also a means of deterring your feline friend from utilizing furniture to scratch on. Trees with several shelves and cubbies are generally preferred over just a scratching pole, although a scratching pole can certainly prove to be a valuable accessory and having one in addition to a cat tree will not make your kitten or cat complain!

Cubbies and shelves on cat trees or towers can provide a place for playful sneak attacks, hiding or a cozy spot when it’s time to just get away for a short little “cat nap” too.

Keeping your tree well maintained is important, too. Regularly snip loose or long strings, use a damp cloth on the carpeted areas to remove loose hair, dust and dander buildup and if there are wood areas, wipe those down as well. Never use any cleaning products that could be harmful to your kitten or cat.

Providing a variety of entertaining toys and play areas for your kitten will help to insure a well balanced, well rounded and healthy mature feline!

Cats were worshiped as gods in ancient Egypt and cursed as demons during the Massachusetts witch trials. Today, cats still hold our attention, as they quickly become the most popular pet in American households. We, humans, finally learned to value them for their ability to not only provide companionship and love, but also for their intelligence, and fun-loving and carefree nature.

The Bengal is one of the most adaptable breeds. They make an excellent addition to most families, and they are relatively easy to care for, relatively inexpensive and take very little space, in comparison to many other pets.

As a family pet, children can easily become involved in the care and nurturing of their new Bengal companion, while learning responsibility and simultaneously bonding to their pet.

Since most children can not be expected to be solely responsible for pet care, this also provides a wonderful opportunity for parents and siblings to learn to work together as a family in the goal of providing excellent care and love to their new Bengal cat.

Bengals are active, affection seeking pets and they generally thrive in a family setting. Most enjoy playing and running with children, are easily adaptable and quick to learn new tricks.

A new kitten in the home makes for an exciting experience for most children. Prior to acquiring a kitten though, children should be provided with basic information and instruction to eliminate and avoid any problems that might occur. Even very small children can learn basic safety rules. Depending on the child’s age, supervision should be structured to help keep both, the kitten and the child, safe.

How to play with the kitten should be discussed, even using a stuffed animal as an example for smaller children. Children should be taught to be gentle and calm around the kitten. Some children learn by observation and therefore parents should set the example.

Once the kitten arrives, teach children that there are certain times when the kitten must be left alone. These rules will help keep them safe and make the kitten feel safe too.

• When it’s eating or drinking
• When sleeping—unless to give soft and gentle strokes
• If the kitten is hiding
• If the kitten is hissing, has its ears back or is showing aggression.

Providing children with safe toys that will assist in positive interactions, yet will not frighten the kitten, will help the kitten to trust the child and help the child to release some of the excitement that may be building over the new pet. Parents need to intervene if hitting occurs and the kitten needs to be protected. Throughout interactions between the kitten and the child, parents should be quick to step in when needed on behalf of the kitten and or the child.

Behavior from the kitten that would be unacceptable as an adult should be unacceptable as a kitten, for example biting hands or nipping at heels and children need to be taught how to tell the kitten no in a firm yet gentle manner. The safety of the child and the kitten are paramount and ultimately the responsibility of the adults.

On another avenue of first meetings is the opposite side of the equation—where it’s not the kitten that is new to the home, but rather it is the baby that is new! Preparing the kitten for the new arrival is very important and will help to prevent incidents. This might take a bit of work as well as commitment on the part of the parents. Start prior to the baby’s birth to chart a probable schedule; waking at odd hours increased use of certain appliances (the washer and dryer), etc.

Don’t isolate the kitten from the nursery—the kitten should be introduced to the nursery and the baby’s furniture prior to the baby’s arrival. If the kitten starts to jump up on the crib, stop the behavior right away so that the kitten understands that the area is off limits. Making a recording of a baby crying and playing it for the kitten to hear will aid in desensitization. Once the baby arrives, remember that the kitten is used to getting a certain amount of attention and the family should make a concerted effort to maintain that level of interaction.

Children and kittens can make wonderful friends. But it is critical that the adults provide guidance to insure that the interactions remain positive for both the kitten and the child.

Some cats will happily sit in your lap or on a table while you trim their nails, others may require two people to apply some form of restraint. Cats that do not like to have their nails trimmed can be quite a challenge. Therefore, if possible, begin training your cat as a kitten to enjoy the routine and basic process of nail clipping.

Playing with and touching your cat’s paws will assist you in getting your cat used to having his or her paws handled as well as gaining trust prior to attempting to trim claws. Gently massage your cat’s toes and paws while snuggling and playing and occasionally apply pressure to the toes forcing the nails to extend. To extend the nail, place your index finger under the toe and apply pressure to the top of the toe with your thumb. This gentle act, during times of mutual affection, will encourage less resistance when actually performing nail trimming.
Trim the nails regularly approximately every ten to fourteen days. Trimming is best accomplished in a well-lit room. Good lighting may help you to avoid accidentally cutting the ―quick, too. When looking at the extended nail, we note darker pigmentation closer to the foot (at the top of the nail). This is the quick. Most cats have light colored toenails, making it easier to see the quick. The quick extends down the nail a short distance past where you can see it. Always trim the nail just past where you think the quick ends. Cutting the quick can be painful to your cat and make your cat less cooperative during future nail trimming sessions. Cutting the quick will result in bleeding. If you accidentally cut into the nail quick, apply gentle pressure with a styptic stick or powder to stop the bleeding.

Hold the paw vertically. Apply pressure to the nails causing them to extend and then cut the nail from side to side. If you cut the nail from top to bottom, you chance splintering the nail. Remember cats have nails on the inner side of each front foot too, a dew claw. Because the dew claws are not worn down easily through normal scratching, be sure to trim them or they can grow in a circle and into the foot. Trim all nails on all four paws. There are five nails on each front paw and four on each back paw. If your cat is adamantly opposed to trimming, stop and try again later or try trimming only one or two nails at a sitting, finishing the others an hour or so later when your cat may be more cooperative. Some cats will be more cooperative when they are sleepy and resting.

Provide positive reinforcement during the process of nail trimming and utilize special treats as a reward for cooperation. Avoid all punishment or negativity.

There are several styles of nail trimmers, including a guillotine type, a scissor cut, and even standard human fingernail clippers that can be utilized for feline nail trimming. The scissor-type clippers can be invaluable when the nail is extremely long and may be curling under. The guillotine type clippers can be most useful on thicker back nails and human fingernail clippers are an excellent choice for maintenance nipping of the tips or clipping a kitten’s nails. Human clippers can cause damage to the nail crushing and or splitting the nail, so utilize these to clip from side to side and for nipping the nail rather than when a full trim is required.

The best clippers have very sharp blades and are always the ones you are most comfortable handling and using.

What features to look for in nail trimmers:

• Sharp, stainless steel blades. Sharp blades insure a clean cut and prevent crushing, splitting or tearing of the nail. Stainless steel is resistant to rust.
• Easy to clean. Cleanliness of the trimmers is an important aspect of good grooming hygiene.
• Comfortable and easy to use. Nail trimmers that are awkward in your hand can make the difference between an easy well done job and a difficult, poorly executed job.

Visiting the Vet

For some cats, going to the veterinarian can be a very stressful time.  They get used to their own home environment and leaving it can be overwhelming.  Making visits to the veterinarian easier on your cat will result in vet visits that are more pleasant for your cat, you and the veterinary staff.

First and foremost, keep in mind that your attitude, anxieties and worries are easily picked up on by your pet.  Bengal cats are very attuned to our emotions and if we are worried… they know it!  Therefore, relax and be optimistic. Your optimism will help your cat to see that a visit to the vet is nothing to fret over.

Don’t overstimulate your cat prior to the vet visit with toys, extra play time or too much petting. Make every effort to make this “just another day.”

  Car Trips

If the only time that your cat gets into its carrier and goes for a car ride is when it’s going to see the vet, then a car trip may cause anxiety. So, mix it up. If your Bengal cat enjoys walks on a lead and a harness, then perhaps take a drive to a park and then go for a walk. This will help your cat associate a fun activity with the carrier and the ride. Provide treats when your cat is let out of the carrier. Help to make the experience a positive one.

  The Carrier

If the only time your cat sees a carrier is when it has to go to the vet, well then it will be easy for him or her to associate the carrier with a vet visit. Try making the carrier more a part of the environment by taking it out once in a while, setting it up in the middle of the room allowing your cat to play in it or sleep in it. Make it inviting by adding treats, toys or a favorite bed. Then …go nowhere! Doing this regularly will help to make the carrier less of an “omen.”

Pheromones designed to keep your cat calm can be useful in carrier training. Spray the inside of the carrier with a little pheremone treatment to calm nerves and again to make the carrier more appealing.

  The Day of the Visit

1. First, spritz the carrier and the car with a pheremone product to create a calming environment.
2. Have a towel, pad or bed that smells like home inside the carrier.
3. Always use a carrier for comfort and safety. You can drape a towel over the carrier to provide a place for your cat to hide, should he or she need that to feel more comfortable.
4. Don’t feed your cat prior to the visit. If your cat is upset it may vomit. Instead keep a few treats to give after the visit. These treats will typically be appreciated by a Bengal cat that is a little hungrier than usual.

While most Bengal cats are very adaptable and travel easily, there are some that just need a little help and reassurance that all is well. Typically, cats that don’t get out of their “comfort zone” (read home) or those that live in a fairly quiet environment with little change are the ones that have a harder time with visits to the vet. Mixing up their routine can help them adjust better.

For those rare cats that need even more help than the above suggestions, your veterinarian may prescribe and anti-anxiety drug to be given prior to a visit the office …or you may want to consider a mobile veterinarian that that will come to your home.

There are a number of household plants that are dangerous to kittens and cats, and in some cases, your kitten/cat need only ingest a very small part of the plant to become very ill or die. Maintaining silk or artificial plants is certainly safer for your kitten and additional pros include that they are low maintenance for you!

In the United States, the Animal Poison Control Center has a twenty-four hour emergency hotline available at 888-426-4435. There is a fifty-dollar consultation fee imposed upon the caller when utilizing the service.

The following list of plants are considered dangerous to your kitten or cat (this is not meant to be an all-inclusive list):

Concerns that were raised, while determining at what age an animal should be spayed or neutered, were that the animal may suffer from long term effects such as; stunted growth, a higher tendency to obesity, a lack of desire to be active or an undesirable behavior pattern. It was believed waiting until a patient was older increased the safety of surgery, as well, concerns that early altering could increase the incidence of feline lower urinary tract disease, have been voiced.

These concerns have been tested and researched thoroughly by many different universities and have resulted in some findings that are worth studying and understanding before making any conclusions on when to spay or neuter your pet. Studies conducted on the benefits or drawbacks of early spay or neuter done by The University of Florida, were funded by The Winn Feline Foundation in conjunction with the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA). These extensive studies were monitored very seriously and concluded that the spaying or neutering of an animal, before it has reached sexual maturity, has no known ill side effects. On the contrary, research found that early spaying or neutering of your pet can aid in the recovery process, giving your pet a speedy and virtually painless recovery. Years ago, when safe pediatric anesthetic techniques were not available, waiting until a patient was older increased the safety of surgery. Altering no longer needs to be delayed for this reason. These studies were conducted on animals ranging from seven weeks old to twelve months old. Those seven weeks old did not react any differently than those who were twelve months old.

Results from the studies performed in Florida were as follows: Growth may be prolonged if the procedure is performed prior to sexual maturity or the animal’s first heat. However, this can be a benefit for the pet owner who has an unusually small pet and would like for it to become a little larger.

Observations of urinary tract development showed no differences between those altered early and those altered post seven months, other than the differences related to sex. The investigators measured the diameter of the urethra in the male kittens and found no differences between the groups. Contrary to popular belief, the neutered group of animals were just as active as their unaltered counterparts. Spaying a female can actually protect her against mammary cancer and uterine infections. In males, neutering reduces the risk of testicular cancer and enlargement of the prostate and related infections. From a pet owners point of view, the altered pet is a much better companion than their unaltered counterparts. They have a tendency to be less aggressive and more affectionate, and since they are not motivated by the urge to reproduce, they are less prone to roam and fight.

Why Advocate Early Spay & Neuter?
There are obvious reasons to spay or neuter your pet as soon as possible. These reasons are for the general animal population or for your pet’s health in general. Responsible pet owners can and should make a collective effort to insure that all pets are neutered preventing any further increases in unwanted pets.  Susan Dixon, DVM fully endorses early altering and has done hundreds of baby kittens. She states, “The surgery is EASY and the kittens heal so fast.”

A Healthy Pet is a happy pet and the earlier they are spayed or neutered the less likely they are to remember the procedure and the more likely they are to have a speedy recovery. So, ask your veterinarian about concerns you may have on early spay/neuter. Further Reading for You or Your Veterinarian:

1.Aronsohn MG, Faggella AM. Surgical techniques for neutering 6- to-14-week-old kittens. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Assoc Vol 202(1);53- 55, 1993.
2.Chalifoux A, Niemi G, Fanjoy P, Pukay B. Early spay- neutering of dogs and cats (letter). Canadian Veterinary Journal Vol 22; 381, 1981.
3.Faggella AM, Aronsohn MG. Anesthetic techniques for neutering 6- to-14-week-old kittens. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Assoc Vol 202(1);56-62, 1993.
4.Hosgood G. Anesthesia and surgical considerations in Hoskins JD (ed) Veterinary Pediatrics – dogs and cats from birth to six months, Philadelphia, WB Saunders Co., p. 561, 1995.
5. Land TW Favors Early Spay/Neuter. Journal ot the American Veterinary Medical Assoc. Vol 216 (5) 659-60 2000
6.Lieberman LL. Advantages of early spaying and neutering (letter). Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Assoc Vol 181(5);420, 1982.
7.Lieberman LL. A case for neutering pups and kittens at two months of age. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Assoc Vol 191(5);518-521, 1987.
8.Root MV, Johnston SD, Johnston GR, Olson PN. The effect of prepuberal and postpuberal gonadectomy on penile extrusion and urethral diameter in the domestic cat. Veterinary Radiology & Ultrasound Vol 37(5);363-366, 1996.
9.Stubbs WP, Bloomberg MS. Implications of early neutering in the dog and cat. Seminars in Veterinary Medicine and Surgery (Small Animal) Vol 10(1);8-12, 1995.
10.Stubbs WP, Salmeri KR, Bloomberg MS. Early neutering of the dog and cat in Bonagura JD, Kirk RW (eds) Kirk’s Current Veterinary Therapy XII Small Animal Practice, Philadelphia, WB Saunders Co., p. 1037, 1995.
11.Theran P. Early-age neutering of dogs and cats Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Assoc Vol 202(6);914-917, 1993.

©1998 – 2012 Brigitte S. McMinn
*If you feel this information would be of an asset to those visiting your site, please feel free to link to this article.

Hypo is the Latin word for low, deficient or insufficient.

When hypo is combined with allergenic it forms an adjective, which is defined as having a decreased tendency to provoke an allergic reaction.

By Nial Thomson for Bengals Illustrated

There does seem to be a consensus among Bengal cat breeders that Bengals produce either no reaction, or a reduced reaction in people who are known to suffer from cat dander allergies. So why is that? I have my theory, but first let’s find out exactly what causes some folks to have an allergic reaction to a cat.

The simple answer is dander.

Cat dander consists of microscopic pieces of dry cat skin and dried saliva. Cat dander particles are tiny, about one-tenth the size of dust mites. These dander particles easily become airborne and will quickly be present throughout a home where a cat resides. The problem isn’t really the dry skin particles themselves, but a glycoprotein in and on the dander, called Fel D1. Fel D1 is found in a cat’s sebaceous glands under the skin and in a cat’s saliva.  This protein is the culprit for susceptible people who are exposed to it. They come into contact with a cat or an environment housing cats and their immune system is launched, which then releases an inflammatory chemical known as histamine.  Typical reactions include sneezing, runny nose, congestion, itchy eyes, rash or hives and for those severely affected, asthma attacks.

There is plenty of anecdotal evidence from breeders and pet owners alike, suggesting that Bengal cats are more easily tolerated by those afflicted with allergies. To my knowledge there has never been a scientific study done to determine if Bengals produce less Fel D1 than other breeds of cats, but that is certainly in the realm of possibilities. Myself, being someone who is mildly allergic to cats, but has no reaction to Bengals, I have my own theory as to why this is.

The Bengal cat is blessed with a very short pelt-like coat that requires little or no maintenance from the cat’s owner. The Bengal cat can maintain its coat with much less grooming than many other breeds of cat, and it has been my observation that grooming is less frequent, and the sessions are shorter in duration. This leaves less saliva to dry on the hair to ultimately become dander. In addition, in a normal household situation, healthy Bengal cats shed considerably less than other breeds. This lack of shedding, keeps dander that is still attached to the hair shaft from spreading as easily throughout the home.

Several years ago I received a call from a woman who had heard that Bengal cats were hypoallergenic. She wanted to get a cat as a family pet, but her eight year old son was very reactive to cats and would break out in hives within five minutes of coming in contact with one. I cautioned this woman that Bengal cats are not allergen free and that her son may very well still break out. She insisted on coming over, with her son, to test it out. We herded the majority of the Bengals into another room and had the boy sit on the floor with just a couple of cats to pet, while we waited to see if he would start itching. Fifteen minutes passed and he was happily playing with the cats, reaction free. The mother was delighted and asked if all the cats could come out, as she removed the boy’s shirt. For the next hour her son basically wallowed around the floor, shirtless with the Bengals, and did not have even a hint of an allergic reaction.

On the other hand, the owner of the pet food store, where I buy our cat food, wasn’t as lucky as the boy. She had never seen a Bengal in person before, so one day I brought one of our cats in to visit. She had mentioned that she was allergic to cats and her reaction was always sneezing and congestion. She marveled at how gorgeous the cat was and pet him quite a bit. Sure enough she soon started to feel congested and got that need to sneeze sensation. Even though she stated her reaction was less severe than normal and there was no full blown sneezing attack, it was clear that in her case a Bengal cat would still cause her to suffer.

In conclusion, I think we can say that Bengal cats are hypoallergenic if you go by the true definition of the word. They do seem to invoke less of a reaction in allergy sufferers. However, breeders should not embrace the term, using it in advertising and to describe the Bengal cat, because Joe Public has been led to believe that hypoallergenic means allergen free.

Perhaps one day there will be a study to determine Fel D1 levels in Bengal cats and more light can be shed on exactly why this breed appears to be less allergenic than others.

Determining Pet, Breeder or Show Quality

Every kitten is beautiful in its own way, whether that be its personality, temperament, health, coloring, pattern or the feel of its coat. But, how do we determine which kittens are destined for the show hall as the next international winner, which are destined as breeders and which will be someone’s next forever pet companion? Learning to critique a litter without prejudice may be one of the hardest things a breeder has to do. Proper evaluation takes time and an understanding of the breed standard. It requires breeders to evaluate their kittens objectively.

Any Bengal kitten should be able to fit within the parameters of the breed standard. For instance, looking at a Bengal kitten should allow the person examining the kitten to determine that it is of the Bengal breed and not a Siamese. The differences within the breed are what help separate the best kittens in accordance to the standard’s requirements. With a purebred like the Bengal, where the breed has made huge advancements, those differences may be subtle, which makes it difficult to objectively evaluate a kitten’s true potential. In general, type and quality cannot be determined at birth, and some maturity must first take place, to be able to observe traits that make a kitten exceptional. Although some outside factors can assist in determining a kitten’s potential, i.e. parental traits (ear size, placement, temperament, pattern).

There are some things that will exclude a kitten from breeding and show, such as color faults, lockets, structural faults or a birth deformity/injury. Learning to feel for tail faults takes experience and sometimes time, since some faults don’t present themselves until the kitten is six, eight or ten weeks old and others may even appear at a later time in the kitten’s development. For example, flat chested kittens are often perfectly normal at birth and at around two weeks they begin to flatten in the chest area. A flat chest may completely resolve itself with age, but this kitten should never be utilized for breeding. Cow-hocking is another fault that may take time to develop, but on some kittens, it is very obvious that the structure is incorrect when they begin walking. Faults show no discrimination, and can and will appear on some of the most beautiful kittens in a litter. While faults do change the classification of the kitten from breeding or show to pet, many faults are not harmful to the kitten’s health, but are rather cosmetic in nature. Excellent health should always be the breeder’s and buyer’s first concern. A complete examination by a licensed veterinarian will also help determine a kitten’s overall quality, in terms of health and structure. The dam and sire should have a clean bill of health, too. You should know what testing has been done, on the kitten and its parents, and the results. Examine the kitten for sound structure. (See The Cat Breeder’s Hand-book ISBN 978-0-9792807-2-6 for complete information on evaluating feline structure.)

A photo diary of each kitten in the litter will help the breeder evaluate their litter and will also help buyers see the true pattern of a kitten that is ready for placement—just as the―fuzzies hit. During the fuzzies, the coat takes on a whole new look and kittens that once had obviously beautiful coats now even have the breeder questioning their quality. The fuzzy stage should not be mistaken for ticking. Ticking is bands of color on the hair shaft that if developed over the pattern, obscure the pattern and make the coat lose clarity and definition. The fuzzy stage generally begins at around seven weeks of age, and lasts until the kittens are approximately sixteen weeks old, sometimes a little longer. Some kittens appear to never go through a fuzzy stage, and others are obviously affected.

Determining placement as a breeder, show or pet kitten may be relative to simple facts like: Does the breeder have room to keep this show or breeder quality kitten? Many breeder and show quality kittens end up in pet homes for this reason alone. Other factors for determining pet, breeder or show quality are a direct reflection of the breed standard written for the Bengal cat, and the association (registry) that the kitten is registered with.

If you are searching for a show cat, breeders with a consistent track record of producing top winning show cats are probably the best place to start your search. In competitive breeds, like the Bengal, obtaining championship titles, in top associations, like The International Cat Association (TICA), is no easy feat. Remember though, this doesn’t mean that a breeder who has never produced a champion hasn’t just produced their first! This might be a good time to check pedigrees to see if the dam and the sire come from proven and titled lines.

A breeder who has determined that one of their kittens has breeder or show potential should also be able to provide an honest evaluation of this kitten. The breeder should be able to, with conviction and honesty, justify their decision based on the breed standard requirements.

When determining quality, look at the entire litter as a group. Do not ignore the temperament of the kittens.  Shy or timid kittens may grow into a shy or timid adults. Kittens should be outgoing, curious and friendly. While there may be some hesitancy on the part of the kittens at first, they should easily mill about you, bat at your shoelaces, climb up into your lap, nibble on your fingers and just generally want to check out everything about you! After a while, they may decide to go back to the business of playing with each other. While evaluating the group, ask yourself―is there consistent quality in the litter? You may have already made certain decisions in advance, like what color, pattern or sex best meets your expectations, but don’t be surprised if this changes after seeing different kittens that are available.

For the buyer looking for a breeder or show quality kitten, there are other important factors to be considered as well. Again, first know the standard. Based on the breed standard, determining which kittens more closely conform becomes easier. Dealing with a reputable and successful breeder should provide you with someone that can help you to become a successful exhibitor!

Breeding cats is not for everyone.

While some professional breeders do make money breeding, far more do not. Breeding is expensive. Breeding can also be emotionally taxing. This is one of the greatest downsides to being a breeder. Some of the heartbreaks that go along with breeding, are not easily handled by most people. Breeding is restrictive and will change your life. The responsibility and commitment that goes along with breeding is great. You must understand that all of your time and energy must be devoted to each litter. Vacations often become impossible and to maintain healthy litters, the kittens, the sire and the dam will require top notch care. Realizing the magnitude of the commitment is essential. When looking for a breeding candidate, you may be looking for a quality or trait that is strong. Here, your pedigree knowledge will play a big part in the selection. Knowing the pedigree can help to determine inherited traits—i.e. small ears, large whisker pads, white tummy, etc.

The defining difference between that of pet, breeder or show kitten comes down to knowing what is expected of the breed, knowing what your goals are and knowing what is most important to you. Using the breed standard as your ideal will help you understand that the standard is not just about show cats, but about keeping the breed distinct from other breeds and providing a means of quality control.

What you pay for your kitten depends to a large extent on the type of kitten you want, the quality of the kitten you want and the breeder’s ability to produce and provide that kitten for you. Price ranges vary with a pet quality kitten being the least expensive, but this lower price should not be confused with a show quality kitten that you want as a pet.  The act of altering does not change the quality of the kitten.